Image: Wikimedia Commons
Photographing Waders at Marshside — Practical Tips for Better Results
8 January 2026
Marshside RSPB is one of the more accessible sites for photographing waders in the North West. The hides are close to the scrapes, the birds are relatively undisturbed, and the range of species through autumn and winter gives you something to work with even when the star species aren't performing. Here's how to get better results.
Light direction and timing
The main hide at Marshside faces south-west. This means morning light is behind you and slightly to one side — the best situation for photography. Afternoon sun comes straight into the hide and into the lens. Go in the morning. If you can only go in the afternoon, the evening flighting of Pink-footed Geese can still produce good silhouette images with the right exposure.
Overcast conditions are underrated for wader photography. The soft, diffuse light reduces harsh shadows and makes plumage detail easier to capture. The brick-red breeding plumage of a Curlew Sandpiper in September is actually better in flat light than direct sun.
Camera settings for waders
Shutter speed is the priority. For stationary waders, 1/800 sec is adequate; for birds in flight or actively feeding, go to 1/2000 sec or faster. Use shutter priority (Tv/S) if you're not comfortable in manual.
ISO: on modern mirrorless and DSLR bodies, ISO 800–3200 is perfectly usable. Don't sacrifice shutter speed for a lower ISO. A sharp image at ISO 1600 is worth much more than a blurred one at ISO 400.
Autofocus: most modern bodies have reliable subject-tracking. Set it up before you arrive at the hide so you're not adjusting in the moment. Eye-detection AF works well on waders if your body supports it.
Gear — what you actually need
A 400mm lens is a practical minimum for frame-filling shots from the hide. 500mm or 600mm gives more working room. The telephoto zoom lenses — 100-500mm, 200-600mm — that most manufacturers now offer are genuinely good and substantially cheaper than the white telephoto primes.
A bean bag is worth bringing. The hide windows have a ledge but it's not always at the right height. A bean bag lets you rest the lens at the right angle without camera shake.
You don't need a full-frame body. APS-C sensors give you an effective crop factor that extends your reach — a 400mm lens becomes equivalent to 600mm on APS-C. For wader photography specifically, this is a practical advantage.
Composition and patience
The best wader shots are often the result of positioning and waiting rather than reaction. If a Curlew Sandpiper is working a particular edge of the scrape, get the camera pointed at the clean water area in front of it and wait for it to walk into frame. Don't chase the bird with the lens — you'll get camera shake and disturb other photographers.
Background matters more than most beginners expect. An uncluttered water background makes a wader portrait work; a background of muddy reeds and litter doesn't. Before shooting, check what's behind your subject and adjust your position if you can.
The hides at Marshside fill up on busy autumn weekends. Weekday mornings give you more space and less noise. The birds are also typically calmer when the hide is quieter.
About the author
Ed
Ed has been walking the Sefton Coast since the 1980s. He keeps a yearly bird tally, owns more waterproof jackets than he'd care to admit, and has strong opinions about which hide has the best light in the morning. Retired geography teacher. Still gets up at five.